Footpaths
in eastern Tinos
1.Falatados -[Mirsini]- Manganari - Plati
- Livadha - Faros Livadha (Livadha Lighthouse)
On this route, the walker has the choice
of two different paths starting either at the Pano Meri (Upper Meri) village,
Falatados one of the largest and most important in Tinos, or at Mirsini,
a lively agricultural village.
The two paths, mainly stone-paved, cross areas with many Mediterranean
trees such as Nerio tamaricetea, oak (Quercus macrolepis), and box elder
as well as interesting, picturesque chapels. The path from Falatados follows
a river-bed for two-thirds of the way through banks of rich vegetation
mainly of plane and oak trees.There are remains of old water-mills along
the path on the northern edge of the ravine. From Aldakia to Plati there
are countless weathered rocks.
The two paths meet at the idyllic Manganari and continue to Plati and
then to the fertile Livadha. From here the walker may follow the road
to the nearby unspoilt shore or continue along the path from the Livadha
Panagia (Blessed Virgin) church towards the lighthouse, ending up at the
north-eastern tip of Tinos.
The path that is used today by many farmers with their donkeys and mules
is currently marked as far as Manganari.
2.Xinara - Xombourgo - Koumaros - Skalados - Krokos
- Smardakito - Tarambados - Kambos - Loutra - Perastra.
Starting at Xinara, the seat of the Xombourgo
Municipality, and with Xomborgo as its focal point, this route connects
nine villages. All built on green slopes with their folk architecture
untouched, they make a circle around the basin that discharges water into
the Komi valley. Situated in the centre of the basin is Loutra (Baths),
which, together with Xinara, makes up the nucleus of the Tinos Catholic
community.
This is shown by the comparatively very large building complexes comprising
the Naxos-Tinos Catholic Archbishop’s palace (Xinara), the Ursuline
Convent and the Jesuit Monastery (Loutra). The springs that feed the Perastra-Komi
ravine account for the thick vegetation in places. The landscape provides
a perfect backdrop for the man-made features found along the route e.g.
settlements, dovecots, unusual chapels, bridges, watermills, threshing
circles and olive-presses, stone paved paths.
Springs, cafeneions and tavernas all provide the opportunity to quench
one’s thirst. It is worth visiting the St.Eleni (Helen) Castro (Castle)
at Xombourgo, the archives of the Catholic Archbishop’s palace at
Xinara and the Agricultural Museum at the Jesuit Monastery.
Restoration work, sign-posting and marking are underway at several points
along the circular route.
1809 – Markakis Zalonis:
“An hour and a half walk from St.Nicholas,
towards the interior and high on a mountain, the highest on the island,
is Borgo, which was once the stronghold, due more to its natural position
than to its construction.
Today the fortifications are in ruins and Borgo completely abandoned.
The rock on which it is situated, is 840 piches (old measure of length:
1 pichi=64 cms) above sea level. The most precipitous part is above Xinara
and is called “Petasos” which means cliff. The cistern is
on the way to Petasos. The rock here is lead grey, very like compact slate.
Today’s village of “Exombourgo” is on the mountain slope
about ten minutes walk below Borgo. During the period of Venetian domination,
at times of peace with Turkey, this was the place of residence for the
nobility and the wealthy. In times of war they took refuge in the Borgo
stronghold. There are many fine houses in the village but most of them
are almost ruined or uninhabited. For all that, amongst these remains
are the old families of nobles who ruled the island during the Venetian
domination. Among these descendants we met, even today, people of rare
worth such as the Betti brothers, grandsons of the celebrated lawyer who
Tournefort mentions, also Fouskarnakis and Frangiscos Gasparakis, both
sons of Michelakis, the doctor. The house of the Latin clergyman is found
in Xombourgo, as well as three beautiful churches. Three quarters of the
village is Catholic, and the rest, Orthodox”.
3. Moni Kechrovouniou - Mountados - Smberados - Tripotamos - Xombourgo.
This is a route that can be walked in either
direction, and which connects two of the largest places of worship and
historical monuments in Tinos, the Orthodox Our Lady of the Angels Convent
at Kechrovouni and the Catholic Monastery of the Sacred Heart at Xombourgo.
It takes the walker to picturesque villages, past springs and a stone
bridge.
After Tripotamos the route follows the old stone-paved road from Xombourgo
and, after a certain point, becomes part of that ancient road. Close to
Xombourgo the walker can see the remains of the Geometric and Archaic
city, its walls and its temples.
4. Kionia - [Hatzirados] - Ktikados - Smourdia -
Vari - Poles - Hora.
This route can be split into smaller walks
such as Ktikados-Kionia, Xatzirados-Kiona, Smourdia-Vari-Poles-Hora. The
latter follows the ancient stone-paved Hora to Xombourgo road, especially
the section from Tripotamos to Hora. Just before Hora, at Poles, the route
runs parallel to the walls of ancient Tinos (of the Classical-Hellenistic
years), and very close to the remains of the city’s Pesistratus
aqueduct.
The other two walks connect the very picturesque villages of Ktikados
and Hatzirados with the valley and the coast of Kionia (where the walker
may visit the archaeological site of the Poseidon and Amphitriti temple),
crossing an area with a wonderful view of the sea. The walker walks through
trees passing old drinking fountains and stone-bridges.
As a complete walk this route connects Ktikados with Hora, passing through
old, now ruined Ktikados, and, at Smourdia, meets the stone-paved Xombourgo-Hora
road.
At the south-western edge of Tripotamos the island’s central asphalt
road meets the above Xombourgo-Hora road. Here the walker joins the route
and may choose between walking to Hora or to the villages Ktikados-Hatzirados-Kionia.
5. Falatados (Kathlicados) - Volax - Griza - Sklavohorio
- Agapi.
Setting out from the tiny village of Cathlikados,
which is part of Falatados, the walker passes from Pano (Upper) to Kato
(Lower) Meri, after visiting the village of Volax.
The landscape is impressive, largely composed of the weathered plutonic
rock (the peculiar granite formations).
The village of Volax, influenced by this landscape, is a monument of local
architecture. It is well-known for its basket makers who used this footpath
to take their wares to the Falatados market.
The route follows the Agapi ravine for quite a long way through hollyoaks,
mastic, oleanders and other vegetation. The track branches of towards
Sklavohorio,
home of the painter, Nikos Gizis, while the main path ends at Agapi. Both
these villages are examples of plastic architecture that emphasizes their
many vaulted archways.
6. Mirsini - Profitis Elias (Prophet Elijah) - Summit
of Tsiknias.
After Mirsini the route follows the asphalt
Steni-Mirsini road. At Almassouria the walker should take the footpath
towards Xokopi which will leading to the foot of Tsiknias.
The ascent begins at Marmara and zig-zags upwards to Pano (Upper Tsiknias
as far as the Prophet Elijah chapel. From here the route continues along
a small plateau until it reaches the summit.
Tsiknias is known as the “Yirai Petrai” (Round Stones) of
ancient times. According to mythology this was the dwelling place of Aeolus,
the god of the winds, and the burial place of Zetes and Calais, sons of
Boreas (the north wind).
The whole of eastern Tinos can be seen from the summit as well as all
the nearby islands. Brushwood (Sacropoterium spinosum) and sparse scrub-oak
(Quercus coccifera) predominate on the mountain.
7. Steni - Potamia - Marouli - Lichnaftia.
The downhill path towards Potamia, starts
at Steni which is the capital village of Pano (Upper) Meri, as well as
the capital of the Orthodox quarter with its notable St. Andonios parish
church. Potamia, facing east, is above the confluence of the three ravines.
Traditional and picturesque, it has, among other things, a wonderful spring
with washing place, and a rakitzio (raki-still) at Xinari.
The route continues along the Tartari footpath with a stone bridge and
distinctive dovecotes. It leads to Marouli, a beautiful, fertile place
with gardens, orchards and chapels, on the southern slopes of Tsiknias.
After the route crosses the Neromilos area (with old settlement and water-mill),
it ends at the unspoilt Lichnaftia coast.
8. Dhio Horia (Two Villages) - Kounares - Agios
Ioannis (St.John) Porto
A stone path leads down from the lowest
spring (xinari*) in Dhio Horia(the highest village on the island and of
great architectural interest) towards the Mandalou grazings. The walker
has a panoramic view of the horizon as he passes the important Faneromeni
monastery and arrives at Kounares. This is a place of rare beauty with
ancient rural settlements and buildings.
The route continues and meets the asphalt road and ends at the attractive
harbour of Agios Yiannis Porto.
*xinari= drinking water spring and troughs
for washing and watering animals.
Walks in Western Tinos
9. Kalloni - Aetofolia (Eagle Nest) - Koris
Pyrgos - Stavria - Moni Katapoliani - Platia - Pyrgos.
This long route connects Kato (Lower) with
Oxo (Outer) Meri, mainly following the old mule track parallel to the
northern coastline. Even though in some places, the route joins the Kalloni
- Pyrgos road, it is of great cultural interest. Immediately after Aetofolia
(Eagle’s Nest), it comes to the village’s picturesque xinari-spring,
a stone bridge and the sites of the Anargiri Saints and Pyrgia with the
remains of Hellenistic towers and other ancient buildings.
At Koris Pyrgos the wild landscape (the Halakia ravine) and the layout
of rural settlements built upon ancient foundations are quite breathtaking.
The walker, before arriving at the Cistercian Panagia Katapoliani Monastery
(18th Century), comes to another rural hamlet of Stavria. Platia, a small
pleasant village before Pyrgos, is not far. The walk down to Pyrgos introduces
the traveller to the largest village of Tinos, with its long tradition
of marble sculpting, and birthplace of the most famous Tiniot artists.
The Museum of Halepas and Panormitis Artists, the School of Fine Arts,
marble fountains etc, add beauty to this village of fine marble.
The lovely Platanos square awaits the walker for rest and reward for all
the effort.
10. Kardiani- Isternia -[Isternia Bay]- Vernardhados - Pyrgos - Marlas
- Mamados.
This Oxo Meri route follows part of the
old Oxo Meri Agia Marina - Kionia - Hora muletrack. The walk begins at
Kardiani , situated above a fertile ravine with a view of the Aegean,
and runs parallel with and above the asphalt Kardiani-Isternia road. Isternia,
in a similar position to Kardiani, is a typical marble village with the
Museum of Isternia Artists to celebrate the work of its sculptors. A fork
off the route leads along a fine stone-stepped track to the harbour of
Isternia (Isternia Bay).
The next stop before Pyrgos is the small village of Vernardhados. After
Pyrgos, the route continues to Marlas and Mamados, famous for their fine
craftsmen.
1809 – Markakis Zalonis:
A small distance from the Agios Ioannis
harbour, and virtually opposite Mykonos, the sea is very deep. Near this
place, high rocky mountains rise from a ravine that is open to the sea
and that cuts someway inland. The slightest wind causes tempestuous air
currents to rush through the channel, making the place, known as Tsiknias,
very dangerous.
Sailors who know of the dangers, always lower their sails even when the
weather is calm, so that they are always prepared to cope with violent
and unexpected storms.
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